Paraiba Tourmaline Mine, Brazil, 1988
In the spring of 1988 we spent a month in Brazil. We were looking for the usual mineral and gemstone specimens, and wanted to stock up on quartz and things like spheres for the ‘crystal craze’ that was in high form then. Our primary purpose was more long-range, however. The previous year a friend of ours who lived in Sao Paulo had visited the states and had brought with him several faceted tourmalines from the Paraiba occurance. These were of the best tourquoise color and attracted a lot of attention as the area was little known at the time. He wanted a geological evaluation of the mines so we agreed to follow up and do a field check of the producing area. We all wanted to see if there was any possibility of acquiring either a source or ownership.
Arrangements were made to meet with one of the developers of the property. We traveled to Paraiba state to meet him, flying into Recife on the coast and then to Campina Grande where we met Hector. Hector was a well-to-do man by local standards, a road repair contractor, who had sold most of his business equipment in order to pursue mining the tourmalines at Paraiba. We met him at a hotel in a small town where we looked at bags of stones, mostly small fragments of crystals with mixed quality and color and with none of specimen quality. In the morning Hector took us further into the ‘wilds’ stopping to show us a home he was building for his family. It was very basic by our standards, cement floors and walls, one water source and a bathroom separated from the house. We drove in a small jeep some 25-30 Km, over dirt tracks that would have been impassable in wet weather. At one point he leaned on the horn in the middle of nowhere and we all wondered why. As we crested a small hill, there was a gate across the road and a small boy was pushing it open. Our driver slowed, but never stopped, and handed the boy a bill, maybe 50 cents, that would make his week.
We arrived at the mines and the small village of Sao Jose da Batalha. It was a typical one street village, with mostly stone or cement homes with red tile roofs and large window openings with no glass or screens. Goats and pigs and a variety of dogs made themselves at home just about everywhere, including inside some of the homes.
The mines all followed a very clear structure that crossed a hill, probably covering 40-50 acres. From the crest of the hill the structure could be seen in the distance revealed by the white waste rock around pits and trenches in the associated pegmatite. According to Hector, there were more locations for gemstones on the structure, but none had the color of those at the site we were evaluating. On the hill there were large trenches and open cuts, some clearly quite old. These showed areas with wonderfully colored, zoned pink and tourquoise tourmalines in matrix. Fine specimens but not the gem crystals we were looking for. As I recall, there were some very active wasps in the area as well. To compliment the wasps there were some attractive but toxic caterpillars on the bushes. Teri approached one of them and was warned the she would have ‘24 hours of pain’ if she touched it.
There were two active workings on the hill at that time. One, a vertical shaft, was producing very little. The miners offered me a tour but after looking over the way they maneuvered down the shaft (20 meters deep) with only an old-looking rope attached to a flimsy tripod of sticks and what might have passed for steps in the walls, I declined. Twenty years ago I was much more agile and a lot lighter but still no match for those guys.
The second workings were more productive and had been open-cut but, following a rock slide, were contained in an adit designed to intercept the pegmatite under the previous surface openings. There was one miner working with very basic hand tools and progressing a few feet a week. Hector wanted enough money to get some drilling equipment and a diesel powered compressor to speed things up. Everyone agreed that the rare crystals of gem quality were “limpia, limpia” and as big as our fingers. Following the tour we retired to Hector’s town home where his mistress (he was a two family man) had prepared rice, beans and some sort of meat. We talked about the problems of obtaining mining rights as ‘outsiders’ and it really came down to trusting a local, Hector in this case, with a lot of money. It is a bit more complicated than that, but it became clear that inspite of the obvious potential, we would have a difficult time gaining a realistic controlling position there. Over the next few years many fine crystals and gem stones were produced from these mines. We never did find out if Hector was able to continue with his operations or if he was part of this success.
We returned to Campina Grande for the evening. After a nice meal and a stroll around the downtown shopping area, occasionally passing open-air coffin vendors with products displayed leaning against the store fronts, and returned to the hotel. We left for Recife and points south in the morning.
Steve Rose
